The essence
Five bedrooms around a courtyard, twelve beds in all, and once your group is inside the place is yours — which is why it fills with families, birthdays and weekends away rather than couples passing through. The kitchen is what brings people back: Fouzia cooks couscous, tagines, seffa, beef with prunes, and guests write about her by name more often than they write about the rooms. Downstairs there is a hammam and a massage room, so the ritual is a staircase away rather than a taxi ride. Someone is on the door through the night. And the practical detail that matters more than it should in the medina — a car park and a taxi rank are a minute away on foot, the souks five, Jemaa el-Fna fifteen.